A “S.L.O. DANCE” THROUGH LOCKS, LAKES & HISTORY

28 JUNE 2022 – ROUSES POINTS, NY
(last stop in U.S. before entering Canada)

Wow! Everywhere we cruise, there is beauty, beauty and more beauty, so it’s been nice to go at a much “SLO-er” pace and really take it all in.

When we left Waterford, NY (where most Loopers turn west to go across the Erie Canal), it was exciting to head north and enter the Champlain Canal waterway, which connects the Hudson River to Lake Champlain.

           

We got to go through several locks that are part of the New York Canal System. Each one looks about the same and is operated in a similar manner. As has been true with all the locks we’ve gone through so far, we contact the lockmaster via our VHF radio to find out if and when the lock will be open for us. Sometimes we go right in (green light), other times we must wait (red light). We approach each lock slowly and usually choose to tie up along the starboard (right) wall. These Champlain Canal locks have pipes or cables that we loop our mid-ship line (rope) around.

Then we loop the line around the mid-ship (“breast”) cleat of our boat in a way that allows it to keep the boat close to the lock’s wall AND move through the cleat as the lock either fills up (ascending) or lowers (descending); the line moves up or down the pipe or cable as the water level changes.

As we moved through these locks and cruised from town to town, we became much more aware of how much history took place along this waterway. For example, we tied up on the wall in Whitehall, “the birthplace of the U.S. Navy,” where 12 vessels were constructed in 1776. (And we also love discovering local art!)

We cruised near the battlefields of Saratoga, a turning point of the American Revolution. Farther north we passed Fort Ticonderoga where the Americans won another important victory in the Revolutionary War (both in 1777).

We especially enjoyed a 7-mile cruise up Otter Creek (off the southern part of Lake Champlain) to the sweet little town of Vergennes, where, early in the War of 1812, at the foot of the falls, a fleet of ships was built to protect Lake Champlain from British invasion from the north.

On right, note S.L.O. Dancer at the City Dock, taken from atop the Falls.

We also enjoyed the small-town flavor of Vergennes while tied up at their “free dock” and its waterside park. All weekend long families camped out to take part in their annual “Junior Fishing Tournament.” It’s amazing how simple pleasures can be so satisfying and bring such happiness. And the no-wake (very S.L.O.) 7-mile trip up and down Otter Creek was another one of those sacred cruises in unspoiled wilderness that once again nourished us heart and soul.

The lower part of Lake Champlain (the 38 miles below the Crown Point bridge, pictured below) is more of a river than a lake. The real “lake” portion is roughly 71 miles long and in places it is well over 200 feet deep, with many islands and anchorages as well as small towns. What was fascinating to us is that all of the western shore of the Lake is in New York (together with the Adirondack Mountains–below) and all of the eastern shore is in Vermont (where we could see the Green Mountains). And all of it was very beautiful—one of our favorite words!

We chose to stay in Burlington, VT for two nights, where we were able to buy provisions, some boat supplies (at West Marine—they seem to be everywhere!) and get prescription refills easily. Dining was delightful overlooking the lake and feeling the cool breezes. And of course we had to get an ice cream cone at Ben & Jerry’s, “Vermont’s finest!” Every region along the Loop seems to have its own favorite ice cream brand (often mentioned in Looper forum recommendations), AND there are few things more satisfying on a very hot afternoon, after a few hours of cruising, than ice cream! We especially liked the sign outside an ice cream shop in Vergennes. It still makes us chuckle!

We left Burlington, VT for Rouses Point, NY, the last U.S. stop before entering Canada, where we refueled ($6.49/gallon). We were told to reserve a slip in a Canadian marina BEFORE the July 1^st weekend. July 1 is Canada Day (like our 4^th of July), so, as we head up the Richelieu River toward the St. Lawrence Seaway, we plan to stay five nights at Le Nautique St. Jean in St. Jean-sur-Richelieu, QUEBEC—the first time either of us has been in this, our first Province on the trip.

SIDE NOTE: We’ve now been in 24 states, have cruised over 5800 miles and have navigated through 50 locks (with lots more to come)! Pretty amazing…and the adventure continues! Stay tuned! We’re so glad you are cruising along with us!

P.S. 1 JULY 2022 – Now in Quebec! Happy Canada Day!