7 DECEMBER 2021, TARPON SPRINGS, FLORIDA
Whew! We just completed the last segment of our 240-mile crossing in the open waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Some Loopers choose to cruise straight across from Carrabelle to Tarpon Springs in one verrrrrry long crossing, but we really wanted to see some of “Old Florida” along what they call The Big Bend (and sometimes called The Forgotten Coast). So we cruised 80 miles from Carrabelle to the very small town of Steinhatchee, then 80 miles to the amazing community of Crystal River (where I got to swim with the manatees!), then 80 miles to Tarpon Springs, a Greek community also known as the “Sponge Capital of the World.” We stayed two nights in each town so we had time to explore and chill in between the long days.
Here are some highlights and observations of our travels along the Gulf Coast.
1. First of all, it was a joy to have daughter Carolyn and granddaughter Maya (now 15 and a sophomore in high school!) drive down from the Atlanta area, where they were spending Thanksgiving, to join us for a few days in Orange Beach (just east of Mobile Bay). They were amazed at how spacious and livable S.L.O. Dancer is. We took them for a boat ride and Maya drove about half way back. She was quite the Apprentice Captain! She was also very good at spotting the red and green markers and buoys—an essential part of staying in the channel to avoid shallow waters (aka shoals). We dined at a famous and highly-recommended place called LuLu’s (she’s Jimmy Buffett’s sister) and that was very fun.
2. Almost every restaurant boasts of southern fried foods—everything from the usual shrimp, fish and chicken to fried okra, fried mushrooms, fried pickles, fried cornmeal (aka “hushpuppies”), fried gator bites, fried almost anything. Our favorite is the fried green tomatoes.
3. We’ve continued to “Loop Frog” with many boaters we’ve met along the way. Today we caught up with a couple whom we first met in Joliet, Illinois, traveled with down most of the rivers and hadn’t seen in nearly a month because they had gone on ahead. We’ve seen 3 of our other favorite couples several times along the Gulf Coast. A special highlight was a Thanksgiving Day potluck at Blue Water Marina in Niceville, FL (near Destin) where many of us enjoyed a huge feast hosted by the local boaters. There must have been 50 side dishes plus a scrumptious air-fried turkey with all the trimmings. It was delightful and we were grateful to be with so many wonderful people—locals and Loopers. This was “southern hospitality” at its best!
4. We’ve been surprised at how many houses have been built along the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW) as well as strips of high-rise condos and hotels in way too many places, often for many miles at a time. (We prefer to skip these.) It was also fascinating to see the variety of homes, piers, decks and fancy boat storage facilities along the way. And it was sad to see in some areas how much hurricane damage there has been, with parts of houses and piers and stranded boats along the waters’ edge. The high winds stripped thousands of trees of nearly all their leaves (except at the very top) and there are hundreds of dead trees lying right next to the Waterway that could create many hazards to navigation in the future.
5. We’ve been astounded at the number of crab pots we’ve had to watch out for and dodge even as far as 40 miles away from shore! We’d been warned about these—you do NOT want to hit them; they can do real damage to a propeller—but it was suggested we turn it in to a “video game” and simply swerve around them. Fortunately they are mostly in straight lines and not attached to one another, so we’ve just had to wend our way through them, especially with so many closer to each port. There have been many times when we thought we’d spotted a crab pot…and then it flew away (mostly cormorants)! So we laugh a lot! AND, it’s definitely been helpful to have 4 eyes on the water at all times as S.L.O. Dancer does what we are now calling The Crab Pot Jig!
6. We kept hearing the term “sugar sand” from those who’d been along this part of the Gulf Coast before. The sand is actually very, very white and looks like sugar. Duh! Yes, there were long beaches of it, but the real contrast came when we saw the dark green pine shrubs growing in this pure white stuff!
7. Wildlife continues to be a highlight wherever we go and the Gulf Coast is no exception. In addition to ospreys, what we’ve seen the most of are PELICANS, but they are gray and often have white heads. (We’ve not seen any white or brown pelicans here.) We even saw a huge flock of them flying high above us, but mostly they are cruising along the water, diving for fish, perched on the day markers and pilings or hanging around the docks where we stay.
We’ve also added two more birds to our life list: a wood stork and a green heron.
8. AND, we have been fortunate to see lots and lots of DOLPHINS–another favorite of mine! They first “welcomed” us at the beginning of the GIWW as we left Mobile Bay, and we’ve seen them almost every day since, even in the shallows near the entrance to the marinas where we’ve stayed. They always bring us such joy. Fellow Loopers shared their dolphin video taken a few days ago. (Many thanks to James & Jill Iverson on Alvin James. Jilly sounds as excited as I get when we see dolphins!) Here it is for your enjoyment:
We plan to spend another week here in Florida before flying to California for the holidays, etc. (December 16-February 1—we’ll stay in Carolyn’s guest house since our home in Los Osos is rented for a year.) We’ll soon head south to Sarasota and Captiva Island (where we loved staying several years ago) and then to Fort Myers. From there we will go across Florida to the east side (via Lake Okeechobee and its five locks), ending up about 18 miles north of Stuart at Fort Pierce where we will have some repairs done and store the boat until our return around the first of February.
Meanwhile, as the holidays approach, it seems weird not sending out Christmas cards, but please know how much we appreciate everyone we stay in touch with and that we think about you quite often. We feel so blessed to be on this amazing “Adventure of a Lifetime” and to be able to share our adventure with you. Thanks again for cruising along with us.
May the holidays and the New Year bring you many moments of joy and peace and love, and many, many blessings!
Cruising with Gary & Annie 
Oh, Annie. WOW. Just WOW.
You got to swim with the manatees! It’s been 25 years since I’ve done that!
I’ve never seen a green heron… what a beauty.
I loved the video of those beautiful visiting dolphin angels!! The water was so clear it looked like they were flying through the air!
What an amazing journey you are sharing with us here, much better than a Christmas card! Thank you for sharing the gift of your adventure!
Enjoy the holidays! I love you, friend.
Blessings, Melody LeBaron 407-716-6874 http://www.transformingspace.com ~ Transforming Space + Self + Loss ~ author of Transforming Death: Creating Sacred Space for the Dying
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Hi sweet Melody!
I so love that your cruising along with us…and also loving your joy-filled comments and cheerleading!! You’re the best!
We’re doing great and really enjoying our highly-recommended side trip down the St. John’s River. We’re now spending 5 nights in Sanford, joining dear Looper friends we first met in Peoria, IL in September with whom we keep “loop frogging.” It’s very fun.
Hope everything is good with you and yours…..know I love and appreciate you LOTS and love staying in touch! cococo
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wonderful to follow your adventure and to see the beautiful photo of Carolyn and Maya. Love, Elizabeth and Tom
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Hi there! Whoosh! Thanks for your wonderful comments as you cruise along with us. And thanks for your patience as I don’t get to these Comments as often as I’d hoped. Emailing me directly (annie@consciousorder.com) is the best way to get in touch if you need me to read and respond sooner. And of course you can text me on my cell: 415-517-2127.
We’re still not sure of our timing in the D.C. area, but hopefully will map that out in the next few weeks. The one thing I know is that we will be in Norfolk May 1-6 for another AGLCA Rendezvous–America’s Great Loop Cruisers Assn.–where we learn all the ins and outs of the next segments of our adventure. We went to their Rendezvous in Alabama and it was very helpful and fun.
Gary is now talking about sailing up the Potomac, so you wouldn’t have to go all the way to the Cheseapeake for OUR rendezvous…
and with Sabra and Frank not able to do their cruise, we have a little more flexibility. Depending on how the next few weeks go, we may cruise the west side of the Cheseapeake BEFORE the Norfolk Rendezvous and the east side afterwards. OR, we could reverse that, so stay tuned!!! Just know that we are really looking forward to seeing you AND we will let you know when we have a clearer picture of the where and the when. Thanks for your patience and your flexibility.
Sending you both hugest hugs and much love!!!
xoxoxo
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Thank you, Thank YOU, Annie, for allowing us all to follow along with you two digitally! What a marvelous trip you’ve had, and will continue to have beginning again in February! Fabulous.
I look forward to reading more adventures in the new year.
❤️ Barbara ( Barbie😊)
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Hi sweet one! So glad to have you cruising along with us. I’m just now getting back to answering Comments, and keep meaning to tell you that if you want to reach me sooner, feel free to email me at annie@consciousorder.com. I’ve been in touch with Janet and she says you and Sue and Sue are planning to come to the CC reunion in October. YIPPEE! We’ll definitely be home by then, and so look forward to seeing y’all!! Hope you’ve been able to visit your sweet SF family…seems like they were expecting another, yes? Or have I totally spaced on that. Nevertheless, big hugs and much love to you!
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So happy that you two are having such a wonderful adventure. Love the photos! Stay safe and enjoy your holidays with your family and friends. Happy, joyful holidays and the best of 2022!
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Hi there! Thanks for continuing to cruise along with us, you sweet people!!! I think of you often and continue to appreciate how wonderful you are and how kind you have always been to me and to Laurie. She’s doing really well these days….still challenged, but really present for her kids. Ty is now 18.5, Avery almost 17, Emmy almost 15, Campbell just turned 12 and Drew is 9.5. All doing well.
Big hugs and much love to you both!
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What a wonderful year and adventure. I love reading about the impressions of Californians as you encounter different aspects of life along your trip. I am now used to southern culture and cooking. The Destin beach area is where kids from Nashville head. I love some of the Florida places you have visited. Don’t we live in a wonderful country!
Thanks for sharing it all. Safe travels, love, Bobbie.
On Fri, Dec 10, 2021 at 9:51 AM Cruising with Gary & Annie wrote:indetful country.
> SLO Dancer posted: ” 7 DECEMBER 2021, TARPON SPRINGS, FLORIDA Whew! We > just completed the last segment of our 240-mile crossing in the open waters > of the Gulf of Mexico. Some Loopers choose to cruise straight across from > Carrabelle to Tarpon Springs in one verrrrrry long ” >
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Hi Bobbie!
Just getting back to Comments after our fun California visit and then getting back in the cruising groove. Thank you so much for cruising with us!!! We do indeed live in a wonderful country and we love seeing the small towns where everyone is so friendly and helpful.
Sending you LOTS of hugs and much love!!!
P.S. We WILL get to the Nashville area in the not too distant future and would love to see you then. Daughter Carolyn has a second home outside of Atlanta (Alphretta) which we hope to visit at least 1-2 times per year. Stay tuned!
xoxoxo
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Hi SLO Dancer, I just got back to California after buying a C-Dory 25’ cruiser from a couple in Pensacola. I cruised from Pensacola to New Orleans then East as far as Destin. I was on the gulf for 6 weeks and left the boat in Pensacola with the couple I bought it from, until I return in late February to continue down to the Keys then up to Maine. I have heard that most people don’t follow the West Florida coast down to the Keys and cut off the forgotten coast portion, so now I will do what you two did and follow the coast. Maybe our paths will cross on the East Coast somewhere? I look forward to reading about the places you have been. Randy
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Hi Randy,
My apologies for taking so long to get back to you. I’m just getting back to Comments after 6 weeks back home (Los Osos, west of San Luis Obispo on the Central Coast) and getting back in the groove of cruising, etc. I’m not sure how you found us, but we are delighted to have you cruising along with us. Lots of Loopers had said the St. John’s River was a side-trip not to be missed, so here we are in Sanford, FL at the far end of the cruiser-navigable River, which we entered at Jacksonville. Really beautiful and easy to navigate….and a nice break from the ICW traffic and shoaling (which is still delightful).
We are really glad we chose to go across the Gulf along The Big Bend….we really prefer the old-time Florida towns to the rows and rows of condos and densely populated area. And likewise, we’re glad we were able to come across the Okochobee Waterway before it closed (until 3/31 I think) for the same reason. Regardless, those who went to the Keys loved it except many encountered way too many days of very high winds in the last couple of months.
At any rate, we’ll head up the coast on the ICW starting 3/14, aiming for the AGLCA Rendezvous in Norfolk May 2-5, and planning to spend several weeks on the Cheseapeake. Maybe that’s where we’ll cross paths. Thanks for reaching out…let’s keep in touch.
Oh! And where are your California roots? I grew up in Pasadena, husband Gary in Long Beach. We moved to the Central Coast from the SF
Bay Area (G in San Jose 40 years; me in Marin for 20 before San Jose–we’ve been together 22 years), and LOVE it! Cheers! Annie
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Hi Annie, I can’t believe what just happened. I had contacted you in October when I was in Pensacola buying the 25’ C-Dory. I think I contacted you because you were heading down the west coast of Florida and I was hoping to find out how you liked it and if it was worth seeing. I was coming back in early March to get on the C-Dory in Pensacola and drive down the west coast of Florida. Well I’m here on the boat and decided to tow it first to Crystal River and spent two days there. Then I towed it to Ed Stone Boat Launch and cruised over to Hontoon Island State Park. There was a group of C -Dory owners having a gathering and I wanted to meet them and pick their brains about where to go in Florida. I was in my slip and looked over at the end of the dock and saw SLO Dancer from Morro Bay. I thought that sounds familiar to me and how did they get their iboat all the way over to Florida. I thought maybe through the Panama Canal or they had it shipped. I should have come over to talk with you, but before I could you were gone. Then today I get a return email from you and it all made sense. I’m really sorry to have missed you what a shame. I’m towing down to the Keys tomorrow and launching in Key Largo. I will spend about a month there and then make my way up the Atlantic Coast to Maine eventually. Maybe I will run into you somewhere? Randy Erwin (707)486-6225
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
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OMG! So sorry to miss you! We heard from the Ranger there was a C-Dory gathering this coming weekend, so when I first started reading your email I thought you would be there! Sigh! By the way, we bought our boat in Grafton, IL, my grandson and husband Gary took up the Illiois River into Chicago and across Lake Michigan to Grand Haven/Spring Lake for some work (late May/early June). We flew to Grand Rapids early August and started our Loop by first cruising up the east side of Lake M to Mackinac. AND, we bought the boat just for the Loop and will sell it when we finish, back in Grand Haven. Sooooooo….let us know when you head up to Maine…maybe we’ll meet up on the Cheseapeake!?!
Sorry we miss you this trip (and again deep apologies for no response way back when!!!)….smooth sailing to you!!!
Annie
P.S. We note you have a 707 area code….Santa Rosa (where my roots began 7 generations ago)? Somewhere else in Sonoma County? I lived in Marin (Greenbrae) for 20 years before joining Gary in San Jose (2009) and then moving to Los Osos. Let’s stay in touch!!!
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Are you back on Slodancer. Hope you had a wonderful holiday! Happy New Year!!! The Hillmans
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Hello sweet Mae! Yes, we are back on SLO Dancer….finally got our second post-holiday blog posted over the weekend.
We had a wonderful time in California AND, we love being back on the boat. Hope you are doing well….and your kids and kidlets as well.
I think of ALL of you (and dear Jim!) often and will always be grateful for the special connections we’ve had all through the years…yikes, since 1965-ish? Wow! Hugest hugs and much love to you (and Cinder-Lou!!!). I hope to visit Fran next fall after we get back, and hopefully you and I can plan a rendezvous as well. Love you! Love you!
xoxoxo
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