DANCING THROUGH GEORGIAN BAY

KILLARNEY, ONTARIO

8 SEPTEMBER 2022

We’ve heard about Georgian Bay for several months, many boaters calling it  “the finest freshwater cruising in the world,” for its rugged and pristine landscape as well as its many protected anchorages and inlets and its friendly small towns. Located to the north of Lake Huron and some times called “The Sixth Great Lake,” the area was once a major Algonquin-Huron First Nation trade route.

The most striking feature of Georgian Bay is its topography. Land both above and below water consists mostly of granite outcroppings. Often referred to as The 30,000 Islands, in reality it should be called The 100,000 Islands because there are so many that are quite small (but still a hazard to navigation). Regardless, it is also the largest group of fresh water islands in the world.

When we first entered Georgian Bay, we were both a bit apprehensive since we heard so much about all the rocks. As a result, we chose to do a very S.L.O. dance. Sure enough, within the first half hour, seeing so many rocks just outside the channel added a bit to our apprehension. Many were just barely above the surface–some very sharp (like sharks, left below) and some that looked like the humps of whales!

However, and more importantly, we were also told over and over, “Be sure to stay in the Small Craft Channel!” Fortunately, that Small Craft Channel is VERY well marked, on both our electronic charts (updated every week) and on the water. So our apprehension disappeared quite soon once we saw those markers guiding us through the various outcroppings, seen and unseen. (As I continue to gleefully remind Captain Gary, “I just LOVE markers!!!”) Not only are there green buoys (the top being square in shape and referred to as “cans”) and red buoys (the top being triangular in shape and referred to as “nuns”), but there are often “day markers” (same colors and shapes) posted on land, and sometimes “range markers” that help boaters line up their course.

The range markers are quite ingenious and often appear in order to assist larger ships to stay in a narrow channel. When you see these range markers aligned (left, above), they look like they are right on top of each other, when in fact (right, above) they are often installed as much as 200 yards apart, one behind the other. When aligned, you know you’re on the correct course.

AND, every day before we leave (and the night before when we’re first going over the route), we check to make sure which side the markers are supposed to be on. Generally speaking, when going downstream, or toward a large body of water, the reds are on the left and the greens are on the right. When going upstream, or away from a large body of water, the reds are on the right (aka “Red Right Returning”) and the greens are on the left. However, sometimes they change during the course of a day, especially entering and leaving inlets and marinas, so it’s essential to review this to make sure we’re on the correct side of the markers in every moment. Sometimes, it is quite the dance! For quick reference, we even have reminders on the helm that we switch every time the markers switch. (Note the green and red balls on either side of the electronic “chart plotter” below. They are made of heavy cord using a knot called a “monkey ball.”)

Here’s one of Captain Gary’s favorite reminders, especially in places where the markers are so critical, “Always do your best to never get on the wrong side of a nun!” 🙂 So far we’ve been very good at staying on the correct side. It makes for a much safer journey!

Most of the islands in Georgian Bay today are either Park Reserve lands or in private hands, utilized as “cottage” properties, which we’ve talked about before…in Ontario, almost every home on or near the water is called a “cottage.” Those below are also referred to as island homes. Here are two of our favorites:

Another delight was watching seaplanes land and take off throughout the day at three marinas where we stayed—Henry’s Fish Restaurant (people flew in for lunch or dinner), Parry Sound and Killarney Mountain Lodge, where the owner flies in and out on his own seaplane.

          

By the way, the Killarney Mountain Lodge—a very popular destination resort here in Ontario, at the end of Georgian Bay/beginning of The North Channel—has got to be the fanciest, classiest place we’ve stayed on the entire Loop. The buildings inside and out are amazing, and so is the landscaping, which so beautifully incorporates the many rock outcroppings. There also happen to be dozens and dozens of red chairs facing the beautiful surroundings. Canadians love their red chairs!

           

One other highlight of this adventure is the amazing art we see in almost every town—in galleries, but especially outdoors. Midland, Ontario (where we rested a few days after the Trent-Severn Waterway and at the beginning of Georgian Bay) is a perfect example of homegrown creativity. It is famous for its murals, including “North America’s largest outdoor historic mural,” beautifully executed on massive grain elevators overlooking the town docks where we stayed.

Another large mural depicts an amazing lighthouse, which cleverly incorporates the building’s window into the mural. All the murals reflect the town’s history.

           

And, of course, as in so many other places, there is beauty, beauty, beauty everywhere. So dancing SLO-ly through the pristine and unspoiled Georgian Bay allowed us to really enjoy it and soak it all in. 

           

For the next week, we’ll cruise around in The North Channel, said to be yet another place of stunning beauty. Then we’ll drop down to Mackinac Island (around September 15, depending on the weather) and soon be on our way back to California. Wow! What an adventure this has been…AND, we’re not done yet, so we’ll continue to take one day at a time as we enjoy our final cruising days on our beloved S.L.O. Dancer.